Adventure Builds

Off Road, Powersports, Overlanding & Camping Builds

Discover the coolest adventure builds curated by Nomadist, all in one place. We’re here to inspire your next project and drive your adventure further with everything from powersports & motorsports builds to more casual builds customized for amazing off road, overlanding (including overland camping) builds.

Latest Adventure Builds

Bad Ass Converted Military Communication Vehicle! The JaYoe Nation Video

I had the pleasure to meet Matt from the the JaYoe Nation YouTube channel at Overland Expo East. If you are into adventure, overlanding, cycling or just about any other travel related activity be sure to follow this guy! Matt is incredible! He has climbed Mount Everest, run marathons, ridden a recumbent human powered trike half way across the world, and is now building an Overland Van to drive across the globe on a very similar route to me. Truly inspiring and a blast to watch his videos.

By |October 25th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Curated Content, Off Road, Overlanding, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Touching up 48-year-old paint – Toyota 1973 FJ40

Most people find it hard to believe my 1973 FJ40 still wears most of its original paint (aside from the newer doors I installed and had matched, and a couple of repaired areas). Despite having sat uncovered in the Arizona sun for at least 26 years of its life, the paint still glows with a hand application of Classic Car Wax (until the brand disappeared) or Mother’s California Gold—no ceramic coatings, no polymers, just good old-fashioned “wax on; wax off” cleaner and carnauba. I’ve lost track of those who ask me where I had my Land Cruiser restored. That is, until they walked around front.Thanks to the thousands of miles of dirt roads the 40 has covered, it has over the decades collected what seems like thousands of tiny stone chips, which stand out like a bad case of acne once one gets closer than ten feet. I imagine as the paint has aged it has probably become more brittle and thus more prone to chipping, as well. When I had the new doors painted a few years ago I got an extra pint of the match and painstakingly dabbed dozens of chips on the edge of the hood, the front clip and fenders, and the windshield surround. In the intervening years, however, another couple hundred have appeared. The can of paint had long since petrified, so I went online to one of the paint companies specializing in touch-up matching, and looked up the chart for a 1973 Land Cruiser in white. The first company led me to a color coded 040, so I ordered a tiny $20 bottle of the stuff.Not even close. It was way, way too white.Back to the research. Several people online swore my color should be T12, Cygnus White, and linked me to a color chart of 40-series colors in the early 70s. And there it was, overlapping from 1970 to 1975. Perfect. Except . . . in looking for the paint I found this offering at Cruiser Corps: Well, my fiberglass top is and always has been a distinctly whiter shade of white than the body, which is distinctly off-white. Still, several forum members swore Cygnus White was the body color on their early 70s FJs. So, I ordered another $20 mini bottle.And it, too, was too white. Not, perhaps as too-white as the first one, but not a match. Now I was down 40 bucks with nothing to show for it. Back to the forums, and this time someone suggested Arctic White, 022, which on another chart was listed as a 1973 color for Toyotas—but not specifically Land Cruisers. Ugh. Do I risk another 20 bucks for a few CCs of maybe? No. I decided on a different route. I pulled off the locking fuel filler lid and took it up to Finish Master, a professional auto paint supply store in Tucson. When I explained to the counter guy—whose name I should have recorded—he at first demurred. “We’re mostly a professional supply source; we don’t usually do small batches. And what we make is designed for spraying; it’s pretty thin. What kind of vehicle is it?”When I said, “It’s a 48-year-old Land Cruiser,” he perked up. “Really?” He thought for a moment. “Well, look, I can match the paint with our camera, and you could just build up layers if it’s too thin. But the smallest amount I can sell you is a quart, and it will be $40.”“Done,” I said. He thought for another moment, then said, “You know, since you don’t need that much for stone chips, I could take some of it out and make up two cans of aerosol. It would be an extra $24.”“Seriously?” I said. “That would be great!” He took the filler flap and scanned it. “When can I come back?” I asked.“Do you have ten minutes? We’ll make it up right now.” This just kept getting better. I waited; ten minutes later I had my paint, which proved to be an excellent match.  I used the can to dab chips on the edge of the hood and fenders. I tried to fill in each one to slightly above the level of the surrounding paint, and then sanded it all flush with 1500-grit sandpaper, brought back the finish with rubbing compound, and finally applied the Mother’s California Gold. Looking at the front apron, which was particularly loaded with acne, I decided to try the aerosol. So I pulled off the apron, cleaned it and sanded it with 800-grit wet-and-dry paper, and started spraying on layers. The paint went on well but, as I’d been warned, in thin layers, and the stone chips still showed up behind it, so I bought some lightweight polyester filler and faired in most of the tiny nicks, then resanded and repainted. After three or four more coats I smoothed out the paint with rubbing compound, then went at it with the Mother’s California Gold. And, well, it looked pretty darn good when I was finished—certainly not the mirror finish a professional painter would have achieved, but it shines well and looks ten thousand percent better than it did. Since it is such a discrete part of the front of the vehicle, any slight contrast with adjoining panels is difficult to see.Overall the improvement is astonishing. From a couple of feet away you can see the repairs, but from ten the work is nearly invisible. 

By |July 22nd, 2021|Categories: Builds, Overlanding, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

1973 Toyota FJ40 – Installing 7″ Universal LED Headlamps from KC Lights

Over four decades of ownership, I’ve made a number of significant modifications to my 1973 FJ40—a different (but still Land Cruiser) transmission, a drop-down tailgate to replace the mini swing doors, post 1975 single-piece front doors to reduce rattles, late-model European mirrors, and a few others. I’ve also added several aftermarket accessories—a Stout Equipment rear swingaway tire/jerry can carrier (brilliant, and no longer made), the Warn 8274 winch, Old Man Emu suspension, and, at various times, a roof rack and front brush guard.Through all the years, however, I’ve tried to maintain more or less a semblance of a period look to the vehicle. After running alloy wheels for several years, I reverted to aftermarket but correct non-USA 16 x 6-inch steel wheels that accept the factory hubcaps—and nothing says quirky original Land Cruiser styling than those hubcaps. I stuck with the factory seats but had them re-upholstered in more comfortable fabric than the sweaty—and shamefully cheap—factory vinyl. (Quality upholstery was the last aspect of manufacturing Toyota mastered.) I stuck with the stock, 17-inch diameter hula hoop of a steering wheel but stitched a one-piece leather cover on it for a bit of extra grip. Power steering? Never.In one aspect I never hesitated to alter the factory components or look: safety. I installed a full front roll cage and three-point inertia-reel lap and shoulder harnesses, replacing the original lap belts. I added late-model head restraints (interestingly the seat backs had provision for them). And I swapped out the four-wheel drum brakes for four-wheel discs. Much of this did nothing but slightly update the apparent model year of my FJ40, since the 40-series body remained virtually the same right through the end of production in 1983.Another critical safety consideration was lighting. Shortly after buying the 40 I installed a set of Cibié’s superb Z-beam halogen headlamps, vastly superior to the 1940’s technology sealed-beam originals. Some time later I added a pair of Cibié Super Oscar driving lamps, at the time the pinnacle of automotive lighting technology and virtually standard equipment on rally cars and Paris-Dakar racers at the time. The combination served me well when I was guiding in Mexico, where livestock on even major highways is a common hazard, and later when Roseann and I lived on several remote properties, on the dirt roads to which cattle, deer, and coyotes made occasional suicidal forays. I used the Super Oscars until they were completely sand-blasted and the reflectors had finally oxidized, and replaced them (yes, I threw them away!) with an equally effective if considerably less romantic set from IPF. The Z-Beams had also gone, replaced with Hellas that, while excellent, never seemed to have quite the same perfect beam control or even spread of light. After the Arizona and Mexico desert sands wore out the Hellas (I’ve owned this vehicle a long time) I installed a pair of Trucklite halogen lamps with complex reflectors and clear lenses, which were probably better than the Cibiés. This eased me away from the traditional faceted lenses of earlier headlamps, but still looked reasonably period. Trucklite complex-reflector halogen headlamps—excellent for a halogen lamp Then the LED revolution happened. And the look of driving lamps and headlamps changed forever.Even after testing several brands of LED driving lamps, I couldn’t bring myself to install them on the FJ40. They just looked too . . . modern. Too much bling compared to the simple reflectors of the IPFs. And the early replacement 7-inch round LED headlamps I reviewed left much to be desired, evidencing massive purple fringing and blotchy patterns.One salient thing nibbled at the back of my brain however: My FJ40 has a 55-amp alternator (compared to the 120-plus amps of modern alternators), and it is difficult to upgrade because all the power from the alternator runs through the ammeter via a single wire (a rare dumb design from Toyota). When I flicked on the IPFs and their 125-watt bulbs, they sucked up 21 amps of that output, and with the halogen headlamps on high beam, that was another 16 amps. It was a wonder there was power left to get to the spark plugs. Those LED driving lamps required a fraction of the power to produce the same light.I got over my Luddite stylistic hangups in Australia. There we had bought a 1993 HZJ75 Troop Carrier and had it converted with a pop top and a bunch of other modifications—one of which was a set of ARB Intensity LED driving lamps furnished by the company. On a single, poorly planned drive after dark toward Alice Springs, those lamps—well, I can’t say they paid for themselves, but they would have—anyway, they safely bored a bright 5000ºK hole through the Australian night, illuminating the large marsupials bounding suicidally across our path. When we got home I immediately added an identical pair to the FJ40. The headlamps, however, remained stubbornly incandescent. If LED driving lamps looked like something off the Starship Enterprise, most LED headlamps looked like they belonged on a Klingon Bird of Prey. However . . .I’m working on an article for Tread magazine, about upgrading classic 4x4 vehicles such as the FJ40, or Series Land Rovers, Scouts, or CJ Jeeps, to make them more comfortable, safe, and capable for modern use. The FJ40 is getting new gearing, AC, and, just possibly, fuel injection, along with the existing upgrades I mentioned above. Given the goals, I decided it was time to grit my teeth and upgrade the headlamps, and KC Hilites—yes, KC of the classic budget Daylighters with the smiley-face covers—offered to send me a pair of their 7-inch Gravity LED headlamps. When received, I was relieved to note that they look less . . . Klingony . . . than most of their kind.The Gravity headlamps are virtually a universal, plug-in fit for any vehicle with 7-inch round headlamps, although I found that I need to trim the headlamp buckets on the 40 by just a couple millimeters to clear the backs of the Gravity lamps. Once that was accomplished—the work of five minutes with a jigsaw—they dropped right in.  The width of a black marker tip was all the trimming necessary I’ve yet to be able to head out to Ravenrock for a full test, but initially the pattern and color look excellent. Power draw on high beam is just 3.6 amps. For both lamps.And the appearance? Hmm . . . I’ll get back to you . . .

By |July 8th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Curated Content, Gear - Automotive, Lights, Overlanding|Tags: |0 Comments

Our New Custom Built Stewart & Stevenson Overland Global Expedition Truck

Update from the road June 21, 2021. Our all new overland expedition truck is here! The Mercedes Unimog & overland expedition trailer have been sold. I have moved into the new overland rig & I am back on the road. Find out all the details here. 1994 Stewart & Stevenson M1079 van 6.6 Caterpillar turbo diesel engine Allison 7 speed automatic transmission Full time 4x4, CTIS, air ride cab, air brakes & more!

By |June 22nd, 2021|Categories: Builds, Curated Content, Overlanding|Tags: |0 Comments

The five best modifications . . . to leave off your expedition vehicle

Expedition travel is a different universe than weekend four-wheeling. When you’re just out for a few days near home—camping, challenging a few trails—breaking down is no more than an inconvenience. But if you’ve embarked on a long journey far from familiar territory, perhaps in another country or on another continent, a breakdown can endanger the trip—or even your safety if you’re traveling solo and are tens or hundreds of miles from assistance. For journeys such as this, your priorities regarding vehicle modifications and accessories need to change, from an emphasis on maximum 4WD performance (and, let’s be honest, maximum looks) to reliability and durability. A lot of the products that enhance the former can seriously impact the latter. Here are a few of the most important.Big tires. Everyone loves the look of big, aggressive tires on a 4x4, and in certain situations they have advantages in ground clearance, traction, and the ability to successfully climb ledges. But big, heavy tires extract a heavy price. They put massive additional stress on your suspension, steering components, and bearings. They hurt fuel economy and retard acceleration—and if you install higher-ratio differential gears in an attempt to compensate for these downsides, you’ll simply weaken the pinion gear, which has to be reduced in size to gain the higher ratio. Larger-diameter and heavier tires also increase braking distances. Remember that Land Rovers conquered Africa on skinny 7.50 x 16 tires, and Land Cruisers conquered Australia on the same size. Besides, if you destroy one of your 38s in Botswana I guarantee you won’t find a replacement in Maun. They know better there. For more details on the downsides of big tires, see here. Installing higher ratio ring and pinion gears results in a smaller, weaker pinion gear. Big suspension lift. As with tires, there are some advantages to a raised suspension for rock crawling or mud bogging. Not on an expedition. You want to keep your center of gravity as low as possible to ensure maximum fuel economy and safe handling while carrying the equipment and rations needed for a long journey. Big suspension lifts increase angles on rod ends and driveshaft joints, leading to premature wear. You’ve probably seen photos of the Camel Trophy Land Rovers that challenged some of the toughest terrain on the planet—they all rode on stock-height suspension. If you really think you need some lift, keep it to a couple of inches. The expedition experts at ARB know this—their Old Man Emu suspension kits are all in the two-inch range. Race shocks. Along with a suspension lift, many owners install long-travel shocks modeled after racing versions, with all-metal heim-joint ends, external-bypass tubes, and remote reservoirs. Shocks like this are designed to deal with the kind of high-speed, high-amplitude movement common in off-road races—exactly what you’re not going to be doing on a long journey in a loaded vehicle. You’re better off using a simple shock with enough oil capacity to stay cool after a full day of driving over washboard or rutted roads and trails. Standard rubber bushings last longer and are far easier to replace than heim joints, and help dampen road vibrations. Exposed chrome shafts quickly become sandblasted in the bush; they should be shielded or completely covered with a sheath or bellows. The best expedition shock I’ve ever used is the Koni Heavy Track Raid, an utterly boring-looking thing next to the racer models, but with a huge oil capacity capable of soaking up mile after mile of abuse under a fully loaded Land Rover 110. ARB’s (Old Man Emu) BP51 is another excellent shock, employing internal bypass valves that allow adjustment of both compression and rebound without the exposed bits of external pypass tubes. Some BP51 models, it appears, come with heim joints; I’d avoid those. Sadly neither of these shocks is available for my FJ40 or I’d have them on it (although the standard OME Nitrocharger has performed well for me for decades). The Koni Heavy Track Raid relies on robust twin-tube design and massive oil volume to handle torturous conditions. Wheel spacers. A wheel spacer is a disk—usually aluminum—that fits between the hub and the wheel to increase track width and reduce lateral load transfer, which can fractionally help handling and stability. They give your truck a more aggressive look, too. Unfortunately, they also put significant extra stress on wheel bearings, since as you move the wheel farther away from the bearing you’re essentially lengthening a very strong lever. You’re also increasing the scrub radius, which is the distance between where the pivot point of the kingpin intersects the ground and the center of the tread, as well as increasing the kingpin offset. All of this affects the steering and suspension negatively, and will wear components you do not want to have to replace in a spot where “Amazon” only refers to a large river.  Every time I criticize wheel spacers I get emails from guys (you know who you are) who’ve had them on for X-hundred thousand miles and never had a problem. I don’t doubt this. But physics is physics, and putting extra leverage on your wheel bearings and steering components does them no good, period. (I know a guy who smoked two packs of cigarettes a day and lived to 80, too. Doesn’t prove it’s a good idea.)“High-performance” air intakes. Intake systems that replace the stock air filter with one designed—or at least hyped—to produce more horsepower are frequently much worse at actually filtering air, and are often more vulnerable to water intrusion during a crossing. Those advertised horsepower gains are measured on a dyno—about as far from expedition reality as possible. The truth is, most factory intake systems are carefully routed to ingest cold outside air while minimizing the danger of water ingress. You can, if you choose, install a snorkel, which contrary to belief does not automatically turn your vehicle into a submarine, but does help get the intake above some ground-level dust.  Roof rack. Okay, I said five, but here’s a bonus. Do without a roof rack if you can. Ah, but what about the Camel Trophy Land Rovers I just mentioned? They looked awesome under those racks piled high with jerry cans and PelicanPelican cases, right? True, but, first, the CT vehicles usually had two team members plus two journalists inside; they were operating in extremely remote terrain, and and simply had to carry extra gear on the roof. More important, those vehicles all too frequently ended up on their sides during demanding special tasks. You don’t want to do that, because you won’t have 15 other Camel Trophy vehicles to help you get back on all four wheels.  Excess roof loads negatively affect handling and fuel economy, and everything strapped up there is vulnerable to casual theft. It’s even bad for braking: Weight up high tends to pitch the vehicle forward under braking, unloading the rear tires. If you absolutely need a roof rack, keep the load as light as possible—the weight of the rack itself plus, say, a tent is about maximum for safety’s sake. Some of the current minimalist aluminum racks from Front Runner and ARB don’t add much mass or bulk themselves, as long as they’re not loaded up with 300 pounds worth of jerry cans and Hi-Lifts and solar hot shower systems. Remember, on a long, remote journey, reliability should be your number one through five priority. Add on all the accessories you like that won’t affect that, but the best approach to most critical driveline components is to stay as close to stock as possible. Proof in the pudding: We successfully negotiated the Abu Moharek sand sea in three Land cruisers with 1) near-stock-size tires, 2) stock suspension, 3) factory (raised) air intakes, 4) no wheel spacers, and 5) lightly loaded roof racks. (A version of this article first appeared in Tread magazine.)

By |June 14th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Curated Content, Off Road, Overlanding|Tags: |0 Comments

STVSTOY’s Custom Toyota Tacoma Overland, Off Road & Rock Crawling Build

At KC HILITES we get asked about all kinds of different applications for our lights. Our customers use our products for off road recreation, utility vehicle applications, marine vehicle applications and so much more. We decided to start this new series of posts to give inspiration to some of our fans and to display some cool looking builds. Let’s [Full Post]

By |May 11th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Custom Reconditioned Classic 1973 Jeep Commando Off Road Build

Week two brings us an awesome 1973 Jeepster Commando build by @JeepsterMcJeepFace on Instagram. This completely custom build gives a lot of love to our Gravity LED line with the KC Gravity LED Headlights as well as the popular Pro6 Light Bar. The Gravity LED Headlights are available with a few different options. The standard replacement Gravity 7” Headlight [Full Post]

By |May 11th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Custom Off Road & Rock Crawling OverlandX Jeep JK Build

Rolling into week three we have this rugged overland build by @ovrlndx on Instagram featuring a handful of KC lights. From Gravity LEDs to Cyclones and C-Series, this build almost has it all! Staring up front, we see the Gravity 7” headlights for the Jeep JK surrounded by two Pro Sport LEDs, Gravity G4 Jeep JK Fog Lights system, [Full Post]

By |May 11th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Rock Crawling, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Custom Classic Overlanding & Off Road Land Rover Build

Week four brings us a cool overlanding Land Rover that sports some of our most famous lights. This build is all about the Daylighter LEDs and accented by the Cyclone Rock Light Kit. The Daylighter lights come in 6" Halogen or LED options. The Halogen lights are rated at 2,452 lm for spread or 3,187 lm for spot, 2,796 [Full Post]

By |May 11th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

KC Equipped Polaris RZR Off Road Build

This week we have something new. An awesome UTV from Off Road Tire Guy. This thing is fully equipped with KC lights. With a Roof mounted 6 light Pro6 light bar, a front bumper mounted 10" KC FLEX array, and the rear facing Cyclones used for break and signal lights this RZR will have no troubles at night. Starting [Full Post]

By |May 11th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Dunewhore’s Refurbished Extreme Performance Off Road Volkswagen Bug

A new take on a classic car. @dunewhore and @kibbetech teamed up to bring us this awesome bug that was on display at the 2017 Sand Sports Super Show this past weekend. The ever popular Pro6 light bar tops this baja bug with custom printed brown KC logo stickers. The Pro6 Six light bar is an amazing addition to [Full Post]

By |May 11th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Motorsports, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

XLR’s Tuned Up Custom Desert Off Road Polaris RZR Build

This week's build is an awesome RZR from @k.miller959 at XLR Industries. The Pro6 light bar sits on top of this Polaris RZR. The Pro6 Six light bar is an amazing addition to any vehicle. The 6 light combo beam bar comes out to 39" long and is rated at 13,800 lm, 5,150 lx, 515,000 cd, and has a [Full Post]

By |May 10th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Motorsports, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Custom Toyota FZJ80 Off Road & Overlanding Build

“Adventure is necessary”, and they are here to show you how to find it through their world-wide community of overlanders. The Overland Bound rig is all utility, and though it looks “extreme” compared to most daily drivers, it is actually a mild build born out of necessity. Up top, we have KC’s new GRAVITY® LED PRO6 Light Bar, which [Full Post]

By |May 10th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Off Road & Overland Ready Custom Jeep JKU Build / Rig

This week's build features a Green and Orange 2008 JKU that @joeybouchard uses to ass-kick MS (multiple sclerosis) and allows him to keep the adventure going. Joey picked the Rescue Green and Orange accents as Orange is the color of MS. A disease that he had since 1998. Coincidentally his favorite color is Orange and the Rescue Green just [Full Post]

By |May 10th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Custom Camping & Overlanding Jeep JK Builds with Roof Racks & Integrated Lighting

This ever changing 2015 JKU started as a show build for SEMA a couple years ago. Mark (Sarge) Schleipfer’s had a dual purpose when building this JK. Sarge originally wanted to showcase MTX audio products in this JK at SEMA and then quickly repurposed it as a prerunner/chase “truck”. Fast forward to present day and with a lot more [Full Post]

By |May 10th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Camping, Off Road, Overlanding, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Custom Refurbished Volkswagen Bug – Megalodon – Extreme Off Road Build

Blake Wilkey needs no introduction as he was the infamous Shreddy professional that took his VW Land Shark to the streets of San Diego. Millions of views, 26 counts of wreckless driving, jail time and 2 years wiser - he decided to unleash Megalodon on the city of Las Vegas. Since Wilkey didn't want more fines and other legal [Full Post]

By |May 10th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Rugged Custom Overlanding & Camping Jeep JK Build

“This Venture The Wild JK truck conversion was forged together by Rob Spencer, who is an Adventure Blogger. The JK had a humble beginning of a stock JK, but as Rob mentions on his blog site: "...I quickly found that there are thousands of after market jeep off road mods products and upgrades out there to modify my rig." [Full Post]

By |May 10th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Camping, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Custom Sand-Ready Off Road Polaris RZR XP4 UTV Build

This week's build is a very patriotic RZR XP4 1000 from @utvinc UTV INC representing Arizona and American pride with its custom vehicle wrap. To complement the Arizona state colors, the UTV INC RZR was fitted with KC FLEX™ Array 40" LED light bar. The KC FLEX™ LED array comes in a variety of sizes ranging from 10" to [Full Post]

By |May 10th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Custom Black Toyota Tacoma Off Road & Rock Crawling Build

This week's build features a one of kind Black KC Tacoma that has the first concept KC M-Rack roof rack. This KC Tacoma was built with simplicity and adventure in mind. When it's not cruising around LA, this Tacoma is either catching the next big wave, going down to Baja fishing for Tuna or camping up in the Sierra [Full Post]

By |May 10th, 2021|Categories: Builds, Off Road, Vehicles|Tags: |0 Comments

Featured Adventure Builds

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